When someone talks about acid you probably think of chemicals that bubble and burn rather than healthy skin. Luckily, this isn’t always the case. There are many types of acids and some of them actually do good things for your skin.
Studies have shown acids can promote radiance. They remove blemishes and acne, reduce age signs like spots and wrinkles, and even out skin tone and texture.
A wide range of natural skincare products use acids for good. Here’s what to look out for on the ingredient list:
1. Hyaluronic Acid
The first acid is one you possibly recognise – hyaluronic acid (HA). HA is one of the gold standard moisturisers in skincare (glycerin’s another). It helps to replenish moisture making skin plumper and softer. Our bodies actually have a natural supply of hyaluronic acid so using it in skincare complements it nicely.
HA is brilliant for very dry complexions whether it’s overall or patchy dry skin. A hydrated complexion always appears more youthful, makeup goes on seamlessly and fine lines and wrinkles ‘fill out’.
2. Salicylic Acid
Another common acid that can aid your skin is salicylic acid. It’s a natural compound that comes from the bark of the willow tree. You’ll see salicylic used in many products from cleansers to moisturisers through to peels and masks. A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), salicylic acid is loved for its exfoliant properties. It’s great for removing dead skin cells, de-clogging pores, improving skin texture and tone and reducing visible lines and pores.
3. Glycolic Acid
An alpha hydroxy acid, glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane. Like their cousins, BHA’s, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) provide ‘youtherising’ benefits. Plus they help prevent zits and breakouts and even out skin tone. Glycolic acid is more easily assimilated by the skin than other AHAs because it has a smaller molecular structure. It may even reach the fibroblasts and stimulate collagen production. More is not more so beware of overuse especially when using a high dose retinol. Look for 10% formulations and use every other day. High percentages of glycolic acid should be administered by a qualified beauty therapist or dermatologist.
4. Mandelic Acid
One of the lesser-known AHAs mandelic acid is derived from bitter almonds. It has a larger molecular weight so there’s less risk of irritation making it a good choice for sensitive skin. As with the other hydroxy’s, it acts as an exfoliant but it doesn’t penetrate quite as deeply. Mandelic acid helps clear pores and treats sun damage and pigmentation issues.
4. Citric Acid
Unsurprisingly citric acid comes from citrus fruits so it provides a healthy dose of antioxidants for your skin. Antioxidants have the power to neutralise free radicals so citric acid can be found in many anti-ageing skincare products. If you’re not familiar, free radicals are gremlins released through environmental toxins, stress, alcohol, ciggies – heck, just everyday living! They get a bad rap for good reason as they can be very detrimental to skin and overall wellbeing.
5. Azelaic Acid
Another of the less common skin acids is called azelaic acid. It comes from grain products like barley, wheat and rye. Though it sails under the buzzword radar it’s an incredibly good ingredient for skin-improvement. Azelaic acid is particularly helpful for brown patches and pigmentation. It also acts like the rest of the acids in the AHA family exfoliating, evening out texture and reducing inflammation.
6. Lactic Acid
Lactic acid famously comes from milk and is often held up as the secret behind Cleopatra’s legendary milk baths. As with other AHAs lactic acid is an effective exfoliant. It delivers triple whammy power though as it’s also an antioxidant (see citric acid) encouraging a stronger skin barrier. AND the milk gives it natural moisturising factors (NMF) so it helps to bind water to the skin. Gotta love the lactic! 😊
7. Malic Acid
Last but not least on this particular list is malic acid which is also naturally present in our bodies. In fact, it’s used in the process of converting carbohydrates to energy. Non-human malic is extracted from fruit – most notably apples. However, it can also be found in grapes, rhubarb, berries, peaches, pears, cherries and plums. Used topically it has all the benefits of all the hydroxy acids above. It evens skin tone and texture, brightens, lightens and encourages a radiant complexion.
Interesting factoid: Malic (from the Latin term malum) acid was first isolated in the 1700s. Because it’s present in grapes it contributes to the tart taste of some wine.
Hope that helps.
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